River stories

Old Goa ferry point. 

River crossing. 

Villagers offer sweets on the passoi route.
 
Brass band kicking off the walk from the church. 

A poet reads his poem on Bonderam at the club. 

Dance performance along the passoi route. 

-Brian Mendonca

Perhaps the most enduring image of the Bonderam heritage walk (passoi) today was of a senior citizen playing the drums in the balcao as we passed by. 

Waiting for the ferry besides the languid river was serene and calming. A medley of ferry boats criss crossing the short distance. 

The passoi began from the Divar church at 3 p.m. and took us through the wards of Divar. There were four stops enroute. At the first stop, kunbi dancers dressed in traditional attire regaled us with their nimble movements. 

The passoi wends its way. 
At each stop we were offered traditional Goan sweets like patioyo. Islanders stood proudly on the porches of their houses attired in their traditional best. We were back to the club by 5.15 p.m.

A poet read his poem in Konkani with flair af the Divar club house. A young band of the youth from the island played traditional Konkani songs which had everyone on the floor. 

It was nice to see some familiar faces and hello them. People had come from as far as Vasco and Velim to to be there today. There were people from Soul Travelling sporting their badges. 

A breather during the passoi. 
The festival curated by Marius - who put his personal collection of pots on display - had the hallmark of all his events, viz. 1. No chief guests. 2. No sponsors. 3. No plastic. It is a tall act to follow but it is a model which works. 

The traditional food with brown rice, prawn curry and korum tasted delicious. The dessert was Vonn. 

The float parade began after 5.30 p.m. with Seby opening with Mira Mira. The Goan band Lynx was waiting in the wings to take the crowd into the night. 

Ferry boats criss-crossing the Mandovi river. 

Getting the car into and out of the ferry was done with ease - a feat that hindered me from visiting Divar. Now we have set our sights on having lunch at Rock Inn restaurant at Divar when the time is right. 

These are stories of an island that need to be preserved. Connecting with the island is one way to feel the vibe. The silent river is witness to it all. 

Divar

- Brian Mendonca

Silent river
beneath the looming cathedral
A step away from Divar
with its old Goan houses
in pinks and greens and browns. 
Women holding babies
stand in the porches
to welcome the passoi. 
An elderly gentleman
hits the drum set 
- specially placed in the balcao
to mark the occasion. 
Viva Bonderam! 
- the festival of flags
Where wards come together
to showcase a theme. 
National unity, 
Goan traditional occupations, 
'Save the tiger,' 
the echoes ring. 
Goan prawn curry rice
served with korum and vonn. 
Saby sings Mira Mira
As Lynx waits in the wings. 

(Divar Island, Goa
Bonderam Festival
Sat, 17 August 2024) 
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Pix taken by Brian Mendonca on Saturday, 17 August 2024. Photo of breather by Elisha De Souza. Updated 18/8/24.

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