Giving the Kuswar



-       -Brian Mendonça

There is a tradition among Catholics in Goa at Christmas, to visit the families who have lost a loved one during the past year and give them sweets. The kuswar is usually home-made and comprises an assortment of Goan Christmas sweets like doce, neureo, kulkuls, and plum cake. Nowadays the kuswar is embellished with Goan sweets like bebinca, guava cheese, pinag, baath, almond sweets, and bolinhas. Chocolate toffee, jujubes, and rose cookies may also sit proudly on the serving plate.

Arrangements for making the sweets began several days before Christmas in our home. Queenie put in a lot of effort to prepare sizeable quantities of neureos, kulkuls, baath, milk-cream, marzipan, the not-so-sweet shankarpali and the ubiquitious naankatai. Observing the preparations happening on a war footing I wondered how we would be able to consume so many sweets!  However we were strictly advised not to sample them till until Christmas day.

What are we going to do on Christmas day?! I was thinking. I mean, now that the decorations are up, our relatives have left, and the sweets are done? After Mass, what?

I had totally forgotton about – the kuswar. All those days of hard work in the kitchen, or at the dinner table . . .  this was payback time. Out of the corner of my eye I saw Queenie laying out the sweets in transparent take-away boxes.  The tower of boxes had to be distributed now.

It was like it always was with mum and dad. Mum used to prepare the sweets in paper plates and we children used to go around the building distributing them. By the time we were done it was time for lunch.

Earlier, the tray of sweets used to be decorated with a cloth of lace or crotchet. This was replaced by paper napkins.

After giving all the flats on our floor, the next trip was exclusively for the bereaved families in the society. One lady was so inundated by several kuswars she gave us one in return. She had lost both her mother and her father last year. Her husband is on the ship.  Her son is an amiable dj and has his own music system.

Sometimes when one cannot understand another person’s grief one tries to block the loss. This causes a communication breakdown. Giving the kuswar enabled us to empathize with those missing their loved ones, and find the right words to say.

In Islam, the Eid after the passing of a person is known as Dokha Eid (Kashmiri) says Professor Aslam. People visit the bereaved family and help them to live life once more. Life and death are cyclic. Islam mandates only three days of mourning for the dead after internment.

After Christmas I asked Queenie, ‘What made it seem like Christmas to you this year?’ She said, ‘Making the sweets, and giving them.’ She also said that if you want it to make it look like Christmas, you should make the effort.  I couldn’t but agree.  There are hardly any sweets left now.
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Published in Gomantak Times Weekender, Panjim, Goa on Sunday, 5th January 2020.  Pix of Queenie Mendonca taken by Brian Mendonca at their home in Porvorim, Goa on 28 December 2019.

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