-Brian Mendonça
When aunty Thelma invited us to her home in Ernakulam this
Christmas we did not think twice. A
state that is proximate to Goa, my affair with the teardrop on the west coast
has been watered by many intermittent visits.
Midnight Mass in the Roman Catholic rite was celebrated at
Santa Cruz basilica in Fort Kochi about twenty minutes away from Ernakulam by
car. As you enter the approach road to the basilica you are greeted by numerous
stars which line either side of the road. It really feels like Christmas with
the narrow roads packed and the faithful scurrying between churches of CSI and
RC. The churches are beautifully decorated like brides to welcome the saviour
of the world. The Mass is relayed on the public address system while the laity
jostle for space with cars in the parking area as they bravely stand to attend
the divine service.
The Santa Cruz basilica is a fine example of Portuguese
architecture. Built in 1503 by the first Portuguese Viceroy, it is one of the
eight major basilicas in India. (The basilica of Bom Jesus in Old Goa, the
basilica of Our Lady of Good Health in Vellankani, Tamil Nadu and the basilica
of Our Lady of the Mount in Bandra, Mumbai are three others. ) It is distinguished
by two front minarets and reminds you of the church in Monte Hill, Margao.
Vasco-da-Gama, who scripted a city of Goa in his name died
in Kochi on Christmas eve in 1524. His body was interred in St. Francis church,
Fort Kochi and moved fourteen years later to Lisbon. It was also here that the
body of St. Francis Xavier was brought from Malacca in 1553 and kept for
veneration for three days before being taken to Goa.
The traditional annual Christmas lunch is hosted by aunty Thelma on 25th December. Three generations of the
David name came together under one roof at aunty’s table at Johnson’s Villa in
Kaloor. Queenie’s dad and uncle Johnson were brothers. Both died at
fifty-three.
The incredible courage with which aunty built the villa
single-handedly is awe-inspiring. Twenty-one years after her husband Johnson
David died of cancer she believes he still loves her. ‘He is in the Gulf,’ she
said. ‘So many wives in Kerala have not seen their husbands who work abroad.’
‘He sends me money like them. I get his pension.’
The Kochi-Muziris Biennale 2018 on art and culture will be
held from 12 December 2018 to 29 March 2019. Preparations are on in full swing
for the numerous events that are planned.
Visit http://www.kochimuzirisbiennale.org/
LuLu, the best known mall in Kochi, is one of the sponsors.
Ten years back I breezed through Ernakulam to write my poem
on Kerala titled ‘Chingam I’ (2008) for the Kerala New Year. The flavour still
remains as we make our way to visit Mr. and Mrs. Vijayanadhan in Thiruvankulam,
an hour’s drive from Kaloor. A scent of place, a sense of home.
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Published in Gomantak Times Weekender, St. Inez, Goa, on Sunday, 31 December 2017. Pix of Thelma Johnson, flanked by her son Rohit, his wife Indu and son Hrithik on the right and Queenie, Dwayne and myself on the left. Taken after midnight Mass on 24th December 2017 at the door of Johnson'sVilla, Kaloor, Ernakulam. (Middle)selfie of shikara ride on the backwaters, Alleppey. (Bottom) Spicy pork vindalho prepared for the Christmas meal. Scan of my poem from A Peace of India: Poems in Transit (2011). Courtesy Brian Mendonca.
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